CLUSTER SETTING FOR JEWELRY

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

[0001]This application is a US National Phase Entry of International Application Serial No. PCT/IT2023/050252, filed on Nov. 14, 2023, which claims priority to Italian Patent Application Serial No. 102022000023448, filed on Nov. 15, 2022, which are each hereby incorporated by reference herein, in its entirety.

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0002]The present invention generally relates to a jewelry setting for supporting and fixing in place gemstones such as diamonds or other faceted precious and/or decorative stones, and more particularly to a jewelry setting of the so-called ‘cluster’ type.

BACKGROUND ART

[0003]In a jewelry setting of the above type, the gemstones are set close together so as to form a group of gemstones that more or less resembles a cluster. Typically, a cluster setting comprises a center gemstone, with a round brilliant cut, which is surrounded by smaller gemstones, also with a round brilliant cut. The purpose of adding and arranging smaller gemstones around a center gemstone is not only to enhance the center gemstone, but also to create the illusion that the cluster consists of a single large gemstone. In this manner, by using low-value gemstones, it is possible to enhance the appearance of the center gemstone and achieve a visual effect like that produced by a single high-value gemstone.

[0004]Cluster mountings can be broadly classified into mountings with a pressure setting and mountings with a prong setting. In a cluster mounting with a conventional pressure setting, the smaller side gemstones surrounding the center gemstone are fixed in place by metal protrusions arranged on the edge of the mounting, while a portion of the pavilion of these gemstones rests and presses against a corresponding portion of the crown of the center gemstone, so that the center gemstone can be held in place by the pressure exerted jointly by all the side gemstones. Patent publication U.S. Pat. No. 7,762,104B2 provides an example of a cluster mounting with a pressure setting of this kind.

[0005]In a cluster mounting with a prong setting, the center gemstone and the side gemstones are fixed in place by metal prongs arranged around the gemstones. Generally, near the tip of the prongs holding a gemstone a notch or recess is formed which is adapted to engage with the girdle of the gemstone, so that the tips of the prongs can grip or apply pressure on the gemstone. Patent publication U.S. Pat. No. 9,351,546A describes an example of a cluster mounting with a prong setting of this kind.

[0006]Patent publication U.S. Pat. No. 1,252,966A provides another example of a cluster mounting with a 10 prong setting of the kind referred to above.

[0007]A cluster mounting with a pressure setting has the great advantage of allowing the center gemstone to be mounted without using metal prongs to secure it in place. Moreover, by setting the edges of the smaller side gemstone over the edge of the larger center gemstone the overall brilliance is increased and the distance between the gemstones is reduced. However, as the facets of the smaller side gemstones that hold the larger center gemstone are rigid and cannot fully adhere to the center gemstone, the fastening of the latter is sometimes unsatisfactory, especially when the center gemstone is not round-cut, and in the event of an accidental impact against a hard object, the center gemstone or the side gemstones may come off from the setting. For this reason, it is generally problematic to ensure a consistently high quality of a cluster mounting 20 with a pressure setting.

[0008]A prong setting obviates the aforementioned drawback, but the prongs surrounding the center gemstone and the side gemstones often stand out to the eye of an observer and prevent the transmission of light between adjacent mounted gemstones due to the presence of metal (i.e., the prongs themselves) between the gemstones. As a result, the overall luster of the cluster of 25 gemstones is reduced and the setting may exhibit an undesirable metallic and hazy appearance.

[0009]Furthermore, in known cluster mountings with a prong setting, the overlap of the center gemstone over the outer gemstones, understood as the percentage of crown and table surface area of each side gemstone that is covered by the center gemstone, is generally no more than 5 percent. As a result, in a traditional prong setting, the metal of the prongs arranged between the outer gemstones and the center gemstone stands out prominently to an observer's eye, thus making the resemblance of the cluster of gemstones to a single large gemstone less noticeable.

[0010]Of course, theoretically, it would be possible to increase the percentage of overlap, but this would necessarily be at the expense of increasing the height difference between the table surface of the center gemstone and that of the side gemstones surrounding the center gemstone. An excessive difference in height would impair not only the luster of the gemstone, but also the aesthetic appearance of the cluster setting. On the other hand, it would also be possible to cancel the difference in height, but the cluster of gemstones would no longer have the appearance of a single, large gemstone, due to the increased distance between the gemstones, and the metal prongs that hold the gemstones would be even more clearly visible.

SUMMARY OF INVENTION

[0011]The object of the present invention is to provide a cluster mounting with a prong setting wherein the amount of visible metal prongs utilized between the gemstones is minimized, so as not to impair the aesthetic appearance of the cluster mounting and to increase the light 20 transmissibility, and yet is capable of ensuring at the same time a secure support and setting for the gemstones.

[0012]Another object of the invention is to make a cluster mounting with a prong setting wherein at least part of the prongs that hold the side gemstones in place is invisible, or at least barely visible to an observer's eye, because they are concealed under the pavilion of the center gemstone which extends over and covers at least partially the side gemstones.

[0013]Still another object of the invention is to provide a cluster mounting with a prong setting wherein the height difference between the table surface of the center gemstone and that of the side gemstones is minimized, in order to improve the aesthetic appearance of the cluster of gemstones and make it appear as similar as possible to a single large gemstone.

[0014]A further object of the invention is to provide a cluster mounting with a prong setting that produces a visual effect which is equal, if not superior, to a cluster mounting with a pressure setting, but provides a more secure attachment of the gemstones.

[0015]These objects are achieved according to the invention by a cluster setting for jewelry characterized in that it comprises a setting structure with a center gemstone having a first cut and a plurality of side gemstones of substantially the same shape arranged around said center gemstone and having a second cut that is different from that of the center gemstone, said setting structure including a first prong setting for holding in place said center gemstone and a second prong setting for holding in place said side gemstones, wherein each of said side gemstones is a round brilliant cut gemstone or an oval brilliant cut gemstone with a substantially flat sectioned portion created thereon, said flat sectioned portion having generally rounded or sharp edges, said side gemstones being juxtaposed so as to surround with their flat sectioned portions the pavilion of said center gemstone and being selectively and cooperatively oriented with respect to each other, around a central axis perpendicular to the plane of the table thereof, to form gaps for inserting prongs holding in place said center gemstone, said center gemstone being held in place in said setting structure so that its edge or border at least partially overlaps said side gemstones and hides from view at least part of the prongs holding in place said side gemstones.

[0016]Advantageously, by using side gemstones with a sectioned portion having a substantially flat surface, it is not only possible to create gaps between the side gemstones and the center gemstone for placing therein the prongs holding the center gemstone, but it is also possible to arrange at least part of the prongs holding the side gemstones in such a way that they are invisible, or at least very barely perceptible to an observer's view, because they are concealed under the pavilion of the center gemstone.

[0017]Another advantageous feature of using side gemstones having a substantially flat sectioned portion is that, even with a small overlap of the center gemstone over the side gemstones, the impression is created in the observer that the center gemstone covers a greater part of the side gemstones, which one may think as having a conventional round brilliant cut, yet with a very small height difference between the table surface of the center gemstone and that of the side gemstones. The side gemstones thus appear to be arranged closer around the center gemstone, more covered and at approximately the same height thereof, and the visual effect of 10 a single gemstone created by the cluster of gemstones is considerably enhanced.

[0018]In particular, in the case where the center gemstone has a round brilliant cut, by using side gemstones with a sectioned portion according to the teachings of the present invention, a larger center gemstone can be used, for the same diameter of the setting structure, and the result can be achieved that the diameter of the center gemstone is at least 53-60 percent of the diameter of the cluster of gemstones, thereby reproducing the conventional cutting proportions of a single large gemstone. This greatly improves the luster of the cluster of gemstones and makes it look more like a single large gemstone. This result would not be achievable if conventional round brilliant cut gemstones were used for the side gemstones, as is traditionally the case in the creation of cluster mountings with known prong settings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0019]These and other advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description of some exemplary, and not limiting, embodiments thereof, illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein:

[0020]FIG. 1 is a top plan view of a first embodiment of the cluster setting for jewelry according to the present invention,

[0021]FIG. 2 is a side elevation view of the cluster setting of FIG. 1,

[0022]FIG. 3 is a perspective view of the cluster setting of FIG. 1,

[0023]FIG. 4 is a perspective view of the cluster setting of Fig. I illustrated without the gemstones,

[0024]FIGS. 5A-D show two examples of side gemstones which can be used in the cluster setting according to the invention,

[0025]FIGS. 6A-C illustrate, in a comparative manner, the differences between a cluster setting according to the invention and a known cluster setting of conventional type,

[0026]FIG. 7 is a top plan view of a second embodiment of the cluster setting for jewelry according to the present invention,

[0027]FIG. 8 is a side elevation view of the cluster setting of FIG. 7,

[0028]FIG. 9 is a perspective view of the cluster setting of FIG. 7,

[0029]FIGS. 10A-H show some examples of other possible embodiments of the cluster setting for jewelry according to the present invention, with center gemstones having distinct types of cuts,

[0030]FIGS. 11-15 are a side elevation view, a perspective view from below, a bottom plan view, a perspective view from above and, respectively, a top plan view of a cluster setting according to another embodiment of the invention, and

[0031]FIGS. 16-19 are a side elevation view, a perspective view from below, a bottom plan view and, respectively, a top plan view of a cluster setting according to a further embodiment of the invention.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

[0032]Referring initially to FIGS. 1-4 of the drawings, there is illustrated therein a first exemplary embodiment of a cluster setting having a setting structure according to the present invention, generally indicated by 10. On the setting structure 10 there are mounted a center gemstone 11 having a first cut, and a plurality of side gemstones 12, of substantially the same shape, arranged around the center gemstone 11 and having a second cut which is different from that of the center gemstone 11.

[0033]In the example illustrated in FIGS. 1-4, the center gemstone 11 has a round brilliant cut, but the invention is not limited to this type of cut of the center gemstone 11, and in other embodiments of the invention, which will be illustrated hereafter, the center gemstone 11 may exhibit a different cut from a round brilliant cut. Regardless of the choice of the type of cut of the center gemstone 11, the cut of the side gemstones 12 is in any case different from that of the center gemstone 11 and, as will become apparent hereafter, has peculiar features which allow solving the aforementioned technical problems of a cluster mounting with prong settings according to the prior art. The number of side gemstones 12 may vary depending on their size, as well as the cut and size of the center gemstone I1, and the example of FIGS. 1-4 should not be understood as limiting the number and arrangement of the side gemstones 12 in the setting structure 10.

[0034]The setting structure comprises a central cavity 13 suitable for forming a receiving or setting seat for the center gemstone I 1, and a plurality of peripheral cavities 14, arranged around said central cavity 13 and each suitable for forming a receiving or setting seat for a corresponding side gemstone 12. The center gemstone I1 is held in place by suitable prongs 15 arranged in a regular manner around the central cavity 13. The side gemstones 12 are held in place in the corresponding peripheral cavities 14 by a first series of prongs 16, arranged in a regular manner along the edge or border of the setting structure 10, and by a second series of prongs 17, arranged in a regular manner around the central cavity 13, in alternating sequence with the prongs 15 that secure the center gemstone 11. Conveniently, the prongs 17 have a smaller height than the prongs 15, so that they can be covered by the pavilion of the center gemstone 11 and be generally invisible when the center gemstone 11 is set in the central cavity 13. Prongs 15, 16, although visible when the gemstones are mounted in the setting structure 10, nevertheless have a body of generally triangular prismatic shape that generally resembles a faceted gemstone. Furthermore, the top and side surfaces of the prongs 15, 16 are preferably machined in such a way as to exhibit a faceted pattern that resembles the surface of a gemstone.

[0035]According to the invention, the side gemstones 12 have a sectioned portion having a substantially flat shape, so as to exhibit a profile of an approximately half-round or half-oval gemstone. Gemstones cut in such fashion are known in the art and are generally referred to as half-moon or half-oval cut gemstones, but this designation is not to be understood in a sense limiting the scope of the present invention, and under this designation several different cut shapes of the side gemstones 12 may be encompassed, all having the peculiar characteristic of exhibiting a substantially flat sectioned portion 18, as illustrated generally in FIGS. 5A-D of the drawings. These show two examples of the half-moon or half-oval cut shape for the side gemstones 12 according to the present invention. As can be seen, the side gemstones 12 have a substantially straight edge 19 on one side and a curved edge 20 on the other side. In the variant of FIGS. 5A and 5B, the straight edge 19 and the curved edge 2() are joined together by a sharp edge, while in the variant of FIGS. 5C and 5D these edges are joined together by a rounded edge. Although gemstones with a flat sectioned portion, like those used in the present invention, are per se generally known in the art, it is believed that the advantageous effects of using such gemstones in a cluster mounting with a prong setting are, on the other hand, entirely new and unexpected, as will become apparent from the following description.

[0036]As can be seen in FIGS. 1-3 of the drawings, half-moon or half-oval cut side gemstones 12 are juxtaposed in the setting structure 10 so as to surround the pavilion of the center gemstone The use of half-moon or half-oval cut side gemstones 12 allows for the formation of large gaps for the arrangement of strong prongs 15 for mounting the center gemstone Il. These gaps, highlighted with an oval and denoted by 21 in FIG. 6A, are formed by selectively and cooperatively orienting adjacent side gemstones 12, in relation to each other, around a central axis perpendicular to their table surface.

[0037]It should be noted that the aforementioned gaps 21 can be formed by virtue of the peculiar feature that the side gemstones 12 have a substantially flat sectioned portion 18, i.e., a halfmoon or half-oval cut. In contrast, if the side gemstones 12 had a round brilliant cut, as shown in FIG. 6B, due to the symmetry of the round cut, it would be impossible to form, at the same point highlighted by the oval, suitable gaps that allow the positioning of the prongs 15 for mounting a center gemstone 11 with the same size as that shown in FIG. 6A. It would, in fact, be necessary to reduce the size of the center gemstone 11, as illustrated in FIG. 6C, or the size of the side gemstones 12, so as to create gaps 21 sufficiently large to accommodate the prongs 15 used to secure the center gemstone 11.

[0038]However, it is readily understood that this would adversely affect the appearance and luster of the cluster of gemstones mounted on the setting structure 10. Firstly, with a reduction in the size of the center gemstone I 1 or the side gemstones 12, the amount of overlap of the center gemstone I1 over the side gemstones 12, for simulating a single large gemstone, would be very small, as can be seen for example in FIG. 6C. Secondly, more metal would be used to make the prongs 15, because these would serve to hold not only the center gemstone 11, but also the side gemstones 12, in cooperation with the prongs 16. Accordingly, the prongs 15 would have to be greater in number and thickness, and thus their appearance in the jewel setting would stand out more to an observer's eye. Last but not least, the need to use a smaller center gemstone 11 in order to create the spaces for the prongs 15 would prevent achieving the goal of having a center gemstone 11 with a diameter that represents about 53-60 percent of the total diameter of the cluster of gemstones, in order to reproduce the appearance of a single large gemstone.

[0039]In contrast, by using in the setting structure side gemstones 12 with a half-moon or half-oval cut, according to teaching of the present invention, the creation of gaps for placing the prongs 15 holding the center gemstone I1 is greatly simplified and, in addition, a larger center gemstone I I can be mounted in order to increase the luster of the cluster of gemstones and more 5 closely resemble the appearance a single large gemstone.

[0040]A jeweler will appreciate that the advantage of using side gemstones 12 with a half-moon or half-oval cut, rather than the traditional round brilliant cut, is that a larger center gemstone 11, with a diameter that can cover from 50 to 60 percent of the diameter of the cluster, can be mounted in the setting structure, so that the optimal cut proportions of a single large gemstone 10 can be simulated. This is particularly convenient because a larger center gemstone 11 provides a deeper luster to the cluster of gemstones. In contrast, in traditional cluster mountings with a prong setting, wherein side gemstones 12 having a round brilliant cut are used, the center gemstone 11 is usually no more than 40 percent of the diameter of the cluster. Of course, it would also be possible to set a larger center gemstone 11 in a traditional mounting employing side gemstones 12 having a round brilliant cut, but this would have the undesirable consequence of increasing the distance between the gemstones and also the difference in height between the table surface of the center gemstone and that of the side gemstones, to the detriment of the aesthetic appearance of the setting and the resemblance to a single gemstone.

[0041]The use of side gemstones 12 having a half-moon or half-oval cut also allows the central gemstone 11 to be overlapped, at least partially, although more easily, over the side gemstones 12, in order to conceal the prongs 17 holding the side gemstones 12, while at the same time, however, keeping the height difference between the table surface of the center gemstone 11 and that of the side gemstones 12 very small, so as not to impair the aesthetic appearance of the cluster and reduce the impression that the cluster of gemstones is formed of a single gemstone. In contrast to traditional setting structures that use round brilliant-cut side gemstones 12, in the case of the present invention it is possible to overlap, at least partially, the center gemstone 11 over the side gemstones 12, in order to hide from view the metal of the prongs 17, in a technically simpler and aesthetically more effective way, without leaving visible traces of metal.

[0042]Referring now to FIGS. 7-9 of the drawings, there is shown therein a second exemplary embodiment of the cluster setting with a setting structure according to the present invention. According to this embodiment, a center gemstone 11 having a round brilliant cut and six identically shaped side gemstone 12, arranged around the center gemstone 11 and having a halfmoon or half-oval cut, as described above, are mounted on the setting structure 10. In this embodiment, the side gemstones 12 are larger and therefore have a greater luster than those used in the setting of FIGS. 1-4 described previously, while the center gemstone 11 is necessarily smaller for a setting structure 10 having the same diameter. In this case, the cost, as well as the luster, of center gemstone 11 will generally be lower. However, since the difference in size between the center gemstone 11 and side gemstones 12 is smaller, there is the advantage that the shine of the gemstones in the cluster is made more uniform, and this can generally improve the imitation effect of a single large gemstone. Also, in the embodiment of FIGS. 7-9, the prongs 17 holding the side gemstones 12 are hidden under the pavilion of the center gemstone 11, and the only visible prongs are prongs 15 and 16.

[0043]The invention applies not only to cluster settings with a center gemstone 11 having a round brilliant cut, as shown in FIG. 1 or 7. In fact, as can be seen in FIGS. 10A-H, gemstones with oval, heart, pear and many other known cuts can be used for the center gemstone 11. The 20 setting structure according to the invention can be attached to a ring, pendant, earring, necklace, bracelet, or any other kind of ornament.

[0044]The invention is equally applicable to a setting structure having a pattern of openings therein as shown, for example, in FIGS. 11-19 of the drawings and denoted by 110. Unlike the setting structure 10 illustrated in FIGS. 1-4 and FIGS. 7-9, which consists of a solid conical metal body, the setting structure 110 of FIGS. 11-19 consists of a hollow conical metal body with a pavilion 122 having a pattern of openings therethrough and a gemstone-holder base 123 with suitable sockets 124 for supporting the gemstones 111 and 112. As can be seen in FIGS. 11-19, the pavilion of the setting structure 110 is faceted to simulate the pavilion of a gemstone. The setting structure 110 can be configured to support a cluster of gemstones comprising, for example, seven gemstones, as shown in FIGS. 11-15, or nine gemstones, as shown in FIG. 165 19. In FIGS. 15 and 19, the setting structure 110 is shown without the center gemstone 111 in order to show more clearly the arrangement of the setting prongs. Preferably, in the case of a setting structure with seven gemstones, the center gemstone 111 is held by three prongs 115 arranged regularly around the socket 124 supporting said center gemstone 111, while the side gemstones 112 are retained by six prongs 116 arranged on the edge of the setting structure 110 and three prongs 117 that are arranged in alternating sequence with the prongs 115 and are smaller in height than the latter, so that they can be concealed under the pavilion of the center gemstone 111 when this is mounted on the setting structure 110. In the case, instead, of a setting with nine gemstones, the center gemstone 111 is held by four prongs 115 arranged regularly around the socket 124 supporting said center gemstone 111, while the side gemstones 112 are held by eight prongs 116 arranged on the edge of the setting structure 110 and four prongs 117 arranged regularly around the socket 124 supporting said center gemstone 111. Again, the prongs 117 are arranged in alternating sequence with the prongs 115, and being smaller in height than the latter, they are concealed under the pavilion of the central gem 111 when it is mounted on the setting structure 110.

[0045]The setting structure 110 can be created with present computerized numerical control (CNC) machine tools. The advantage of using a CNC machine tool is that it allows all facets of the setting structure 110 to be given a luster finish. In fact, in contrast to the traditional lost-wax casting technique, which requires ancillary operations for polishing the facets and cleaning the openings in the setting structure, with the use of a CNC machine tool the entire setting structure is given a high luster on each facet of the pavilion, and the luster of the metal contributes to the impression of one large gemstone. Moreover, the presence of openings in the pavilion of the setting structure allows for light to penetrate through the openings under the gemstones 111 and 112, thereby greatly increasing the luster of the cluster of gemstones.

[0046]From the foregoing disclosure, it is apparent how the invention achieves its intended aims. In particular, the use of side gemstones with a flat sectioned portion arranged around a center gemstone in a cluster setting allows for the mounting of a center gemstone large enough to take up from 50 to 60 percent of the total diameter of the cluster of gemstones and produces in the observer the impression that the center gemstone covers up to 40 percent of the side gemstones, and also allows for an operatively simpler and more effective creation of gaps large enough to place strong prongs for securing the center gemstone.

[0047]Although the invention has been disclosed in connection with some preferred embodiments thereof, it is clear that these are purely illustrative, and not limiting, and that a person skilled in the art will be able to make many variations and modifications thereto, without departing from the scope of the appended claims.